![]() The pins hold the height, while I clamp the sides to the bench. I offset the holes by 3/16″ (half of 3/8″) from the top, so that when the pin is in the 1″ hole, the top of the 2″x12″ is really 1″ above the surface of my bench. I drilled holes at 1/2 intervals along a diagonal so I could adjust the height up to 8.5″ or down to 1″. They slide into holes and then the bolt/pin sits on the top surface of my bench. To make the height adjustable I use 3/8″ bolts that I cut the threads off of. I decided to make the side rails out of 2″ x 12″ Southern Yellow Pine. Easy to store (not take up too much room).Easy to set up for bulk removal, but finely adjustable when needed.I started to re-think my method and was leaning toward making a router sled to flatten it and remove the bulk of the material. This section is about 4 inches thick at the peak which means I’d need to plane off several inches of oak by hand. I normally like to stick to planing things by hand, so I planed for 15 minutes with a scrub plane and only making a weee flat area. The two prime slabs are in need of drying for another year or so, but I decided to start playing with one of the more twisted flat-sawn outer sections. ![]() I sawed it into a few slabs and set them aside to dry. ![]() I took a section that was a little under 4 feet long and about 14″ in diameter. They are pretty common, seem to grow fast and make good climbing trees for kids due to horizontally growing branches. I tried to ID it using this oak tree guide but I no longer have access to leaves or acorns from that tree. ROUTER TABLE PHOTOS.pdf (2.A while back, a neighbor was cutting down an oak tree that was either a Southern Live Oak or a Swamp Laurel Oak. Maybe Shopsmith will get into the router sled mfg business. Cutter is a honking 2 inch diameter Whiteside 6220 "spoilboard surfacing" bit.Ī useful tool. The router itself is my trusty DeWalt DW 618. Other sleds run on ball bushings but I have found that a sliding action works OK. This bed is made by screeding plaster to get a surface that is exactly parallel to the rail plane. The white-colored bed shown in the pictures is plaster. 3 X 3 X 1/4 inch aluminum angles used for the rails. The remedy is to do a first shave, then do a final shave some weeks later. Yes, sometimes the wood will still do some more warping and cupping after the cuts. The net result, after some work, is an 8 foot long, 1-1/4 inch thick board that is a joy rather than a nightmare to fab with. I then shave the other edge by running the board against the fence. I then shave one edge by pushing the board through the saw, as guided by the bar. The result is two dead flat and parallel board faces.įor the edges, I attach a steel bar (similar to a Shopsmith "miter bar") to the board, which runs in the T-slot in my Shopsmith saw table and provides a straight reference feature. This process is repeated until a desired thickness is reached or all the high spots are shaved off. ![]() On the first pass, the high spots are partially shaved down to produce a flat working surface, then the board is flipped and the other side is shaved. My sled will hold and cut the lumber without distorting it. If it goes in warped, it will come out warped. Why not jointer and planer? Because, aside from the cost of these tools (I do not own either), a jointer will have trouble handling 8 foot lumber, and a planer will distort warped and bent lumber while cutting. I wanted dead flat, dead straight and dead parallel material to work with. I wanted a way to process relatively cheap and readily available SPF builder's lumber into un-warped, un-bent and un-bowed pieces. I decided that I had had enough aggravation trying to make decent projects from construction-grade SPF lumber. I specifically designed my sled to process lumber. Most of these are used to create flat table tops from tree stumps or wood burl. Youtube has numerous videos of router sleds built by others. A router sled uses a router mounted to a sliding or rolling platform to shave a flat surface on a workpiece. ![]() I recently designed and fabbed a router sled. ![]()
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